flowers & chai

Devaraja Market Mysore

Mornings are easygoing. I wake up at dawn, when the streetlamps are still shining orange; change into my yoga clothes (with little room for indecision between white t-shirts); walk a quiet two blocks to the yoga center, past neighbors picking up milk for that day's chai; and sit under palms and the rapidly lightening sky… Continue reading flowers & chai

on the train to bangalore

I usually love the entire experience of train travel - especially that you can jump on board at the last minute, unlike a plane. But in my hurry to catch the train to Bangalore, I was tense and anxious in a way that I haven't felt since my first days here - it was my first… Continue reading on the train to bangalore

temples & turmeric

Three of my favorite things (beginning with the letter t or otherwise) are temples, turmeric, and tamarind. Tours, though--not so much. Organized tours rarely feature in my travels because I don't like itineraries, historical dates, or being stuck in the guide's cousin's palm candy factory in the Mekong Delta. This weekend was an exception, as I… Continue reading temples & turmeric

mysore diaries

I admit that part of India's magnetic appeal to me was its unavailability. When I was eighteen, I resigned to the fact that traveling there was out for the time being. Since then, I've gone backpacking solo from Burma to the Balkans with no qualms and minimal quibbles, but India's vastness and horror stories in… Continue reading mysore diaries